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Deutsche Küche

Veganer Christstollen (Dresden Stollen)

Recently there was an interesting studio discussion on the radio. There were a couple of experts discussion marzipan. They were talking about traditional ingredients and methods of marzipan production. It was absolutely amazing. People were calling in, asking questions or sharing their methods and tricks. They sounded so respectful towards these old methods and recipes. They were very humble when sharing their own experiences. It’s really hard to describe how fascinating this was. But it reminded me of some very important traditions we have in this town. One of them is baking stollen for Christmas. And for the last couple of days I have felt like Alice in Wonderland’s white rabbit: “Oh dear! Oh dear! I shall be too late!” I wanted to make a stollen this year but it’s only a few more days until Christmas. That is too late!

Stollen or striezel, as it is called in Dresden, is a very heavy yeast bread that usually has to be stored for quite some time before you eat it. The liquid that comes from some of the ingredients has to be distributed evenly. It also takes time for the flavours to develop properly. Of course there are many different opinions on how long to store a stollen. Some say four weeks, others say two. Some people think that the flavour won’t improve much more after a week. I think you’ll just have to wait and see how you like your stollen best. Cut off a couple of slices for Christmas and then wrap the stollen again and see if flavour and texture improve over time.

By the way, I don’t deserve to name my stollen Dresden stollen because it is missing two key ingredients: butter and candied citrus peel. The butter is pretty obvious. And the candied citrus peel? Well, I hate it. As a kid I picked it from my grandmother’s stollen every year and I am still not getting used to the weird bitter and overwhelming flavour that comes from the candied peel bits. Ah well, this is hard to describe: I don’t mind the flavour so much, it adds lots of aroma, I just hate the huge chunks of it. So I use  ground and dried clementine peels instead of candied citrus. For your own stollen you can use either the ground peel or add 150 g of candied citrus peel to your dough. Whatever you like!

Veganer Christstollen (Dresden Stollen)

Oh, and one more thing: This stollen calls for bitter almonds. I know that they can be hard to find in many parts of the world. If you don’t have access, use almond extract instead. My recipe contains 5 g of bitter almonds, so maybe go with one teaspoon of natural almond extract.

Dresden stollen is famous. And it’s protected. You can only make it if you follow all the rules and add exactly the ingredients called for. One of them is butter. Lots of it. For two parts flour you use one part butter. You will also need the same amount of rum soaked raisins. After baking you brush the hot stollen with more fat. A day later you dust it with tons of powdered sugar. It is rich in calories, that is for sure. But stollen is a very special treat that is only baked in December and traditionally the loaves where supposed to last until Easter, which means you’d only eat a slice or two when you came together for a Sunday afternoon coffee table round. I would not suggest to reduce the amount of fat. I mean you can do it, but it will change your results completely. You won’t be able to store your stollen for very long and preserve the texture and taste.  This is a local, very famous, and very traditional specialty that is enjoyed by people all over Germany. I really think it’s worth trying if you never have tasted it before. And if you start right now, you’ll be able to share this with your favourite people on Christmas morning!

Veganer Christstollen (Dresden Stollen)

Dresdner Stollen

One large loaf

Ingredients

300 g raisins (2 cups)
120 ml (1/2 cup) dark rum
40 g fresh yeast (or 2 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast)
240 ml (1 cup) lukewarm oat or soy milk
120 ml (1/2 cup) melted refined coconut oil
120 ml (1/2 cup) vegetable oil (or use 300 g of vegan butter instead of the oils)
600 g (5 cups) all-purpose flour
50 g (1/4 cup) sugar
5 g ground bitter almonds (or 1 teaspoon natural almond extract)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground clementine peel
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground vanilla
1 generous pinch ground cloves
50 g (2 oz.) chopped almonds
120 ml (1/2 cup) melted, refined coconut oil
150 g (1 1/2 cups) sifted powdered sugar

Instructions

Soak raisins in rum one day ahead and store covered and at room temperature.

Dillute yeast in milk and let sit for 15 minutes or until the yeast is bubbly.

Mix with oils.

Combine flour, sugar, bitter almonds, and spices and mix well.

Pour yeast and oil mixture into the flour mixture.

Drain raisins and pour on top.

Add remaining ingredients except for the last two (melted coconut oil and powdered sugar).

Knead well until all ingredients are incorporated.

Let the dough rest for 30 minutes.

Roll into a 1 cm thick rectangle.

Fold one third of the dough over and then fold the other two thirds over, so that both sides meet. (See picture on the bottom.)

Press down only lightly and let the dough rest covered for an hour.

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Place the stollen on the baking sheet and bake for 1 hour or until golden brown.

Immediately brush with melted butter and let rest on the kitchen counter.

The next day, dust the stollen with a generous amount of powdered sugar and wrap in aluminium foil.

Store cool and dry (but don't place in the fridge) for at least a week before serving.

Notes

Adapted from this recipe this recipe.

http://www.seitanismymotor.com/2016/12/dresden-stollen-raisin-stollen/

Veganer Christstollen (Dresden Stollen)

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Recently I have been getting a lot of traffic for an old post. An really old post. With terrible pictures and links that don’t work anymore. And while the pictures may be awful, the recipes are great and still two of my favourites. That is why I want to update them today. They are Christmas recipes and I am aware that I am pushing the season very early this year. But you never know what will happen in December. I know me and I’ll probably post the next cookie recipes two days after Christmas. Plus, we already went to see a Christmas movie at the cinema yesterday and my kid is singing “Oh Tannenbaum” 24/7.

The old post I want to brush up here had a recipe for cinnamon stars (cookies) and speculoos truffles based on my recipe for speculoos spread (cookie butter). For this entry, I updated both the recipes and the pictures. There are corners of this blog which are such a building site and a few items definitely need a bit of remodeling.

Speculoos truffles and gluten-free cinnamon stars {Zimtsterne}

These gluten-free cinnamon stars are a very traditional and well-known German Christmas season cookie. They are in a way the elegant version of macaroons, because recipes always call for lots of meringue. The first time I posted this to the blog I winged it somehow. I made flax eggs and added rice syrup. At that time I thought I had ended up with a decent enough result.

That was way before we all discovered the magic baking properties of canned chickpea water aka aquafaba. And of course, if you make these cookies with aquafaba, they turn out absolutely perfect! They aren’t too crispy and even will soften after a day. Which is how I remember the original version. The only trick here is to whip up the aquafaba really thick. It should have almost the same texture as marshmallow fluff. To do this, I always use a pinch of guar gum. In Germany, guar gum is often available at health food stores whereas xanthan gum is much harder to find. If you can only find xanthan, you can use that instead. If you cannot find both of these or don’t want to use them, use half a teaspoon of lemon juice or white vinegar instead. That should do the trick.

You have to whip up the aquafaba in two steps: First you mix the liquid with guar gum (xanthan etc.) and beat it for 5 minutes until it has stiff peaks. I always use a handheld mixer for this. Then you add about 25 g (1/4 cup) of powdered sugar and whip until the mass is very thick and looks similar to the marshmallow fluff on of the pictures here. It needs a solid texture, so it will hold all the ground nuts you have to mix in later.

The second recipe I am updating today is a chocolate candy made from speculoos spread (biscoff spread or cookie butter). Back in 2009 I was one of the first who made a homemade version for the at that time trending spread. It is easily made at home from the popular Lotus (Biscoff) caramel cookies (speculoos) but I often use traditional German spekulatius cookies.

Speculoos truffles and gluten-free cinnamon stars {Zimtsterne}

When I made this the first time I used traditional ingredients that were quite similar to those found on the package of a jar of speculoos spread. One of the ingredients was refined coconut oil. I still use this fat a lot but I know that some people cannot tolerate it very well. So I do now have an updated version made with nut butter. You should probably try both of today’s recipes, but the speculoos truffles are very addictive. I love to give them as a present, too. Also, if you’re going to watch the US election tomorrow, you might want some food helping you deal with all the stress.

Spekulatiuspralinen | Speculoos Truffles

 

Cinnamon Stars // Speculoos Truffles

46 cookies and 15 truffles

Ingredients

Cinnamon Stars
60 ml (1/4 cup) aquafaba
1/4 teaspoon guar gum (or xanthan)
225 g (3 cups) ground nuts (almonds or hazelnuts)
25 g (1/4 cup) plus 50 g (1/2 cup) powdered sugar
1 teaspoon ground clementine peel or lemon zest
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
For the frosting:
100 g (1 cup) powdered sugar
5-6 teaspoons lemon juice
Speculoos Truffles
150 g spekulatius cookies (or similar)
1 tablespoon agave nectar
100 g (1/4 cup plus 1/8 cup) cashew or almond butter
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
150 g melted chocolate for dipping

Instructions

To make the cinnamon stars

Place aquafaba (liquid from a can of chickpeas) and guar gum in a narrow bowl.

With a handheld mixer whip for 5 minutes, or until stiff peaks form.

Add 25 g powdered sugar and whip for another 2 to 5 minutes, or until the mixture resembles thick marshmallow fluff or very stiff whipped cream.

Place remaining ingredients in a large bowl and mix well.

Add whipped aquafaba and use a spatula to fold it into the nut mixture. This will take one or two minutes. Your dough will be stiff and sticky.

Preheat the oven to 150°C and line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Roll the cinnamon star dough out 1/2 cm thick) between two sheets of plastic wrap.

Cut out as many cookies as possible.

Form the dough scraps into a ball, roll out again and cut out more cookies until no dough is left.

Place on a baking sheet. Bake one sheet at a time for 11 minutes or until the bottoms are only slightly browned.

Let cool on a cookie rack.

To make the frosting, place powdered sugar in a small bowl and add lemon juice by the teaspoon. You'll want a stiff frosting that can be spread but will not drip off your cookies.

Dip the cookies upside down into the frosting and let dry on a cookie sheet.

Store in an airtight container. The cookies will soften after a day.

To make the speculoos truffles

Use a food processor to grind your cookies into a very fine meal.

Place in a bowl and add remaining ingredients.

Stir until everything is combined well.

Place in the fridge for about an hour.

Melt your dipping chocolate and have a piece of parchment ready.

Remove your spread from the fridge and use a teaspoon to scoop out a portion of the spread.

You can form it into balls or shape it only roughly.

Dip into the melted chocolate and let dry on a piece of parchment paper.

Store in the fridge.

http://www.seitanismymotor.com/2016/11/speculoos-truffles-and-cinnamon-stars/

 

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I have to admit that I don’t know much about Halloween. It has become very popular in Germany lately, mostly because companies and shops have been pushing it. When I grew up I only knew Halloween from US-American pop culture and I don’t think it would ever have occurred to us to celebrate it in any way. We didn’t celebrate All Hallows’ Evening, we kind of celebrated All Hallows’ Day or All Saints’ Day, which, of course, is the day after Halloween. “Kind of celebrated” means that we might have had a day off from school so we’d get the chance to go to Catholic mass. And a day later, on Reformation Day, all my Protestant friends would get a day off from school. Kind of funny that we’d remember the saints one day before the Protestants celebrate that there are no saints. Or something like that.

Saxony is the area where the Protestant Reformation started and the 31. of October is a civic holiday here. And while many bakeries sell bright Halloween treats, you will also find a local bake right next to them. It’s a yeasted roll made from a very light stollen dough, which is decorated with jam and powdered sugar. It is called Reformationsbrötchen (Reformation Roll). It’s shape is supposed to look like a Luther Rose, although a very sloppy version. I have to admit that I do not know much about this baked good, I looked up both its history and a recipe online and adapted it. Instead of zitronat (German for candied citrus peel) I used dried and ground clementine peel. And instead of regular all-purpose flour I used gelbweizenmehl (yellow wheat flour). Yellow wheat flour is something I discovered recently. According to the mill’s website this flour is an old wheat variety which has a lot of carotenoids. They give the flour a light yellow tint. It makes for very beautiful plain rolls:

rolls made with yellow wheat flour (gelbweizen)

I couldn’t find much information about this kind of wheat online, but from my experience I can say that although this flour makes beautifully golden baked goods, you have to get used to working with it. A dough made with yellow wheat flour will need much less water than a dough made with regular all-purpose flour. That is especially the case for unenriched yeast doughs, it seems. For the following Reformationsbroetchen I didn’t have to make a change at all. Which means that you should just go ahead and make them with regular white flour.

To make dried ground clementine peel  – you can use lemons or oranges as well, but clementine peels dry much faster –  simply peel a couple of clementines and let the peels dry. This works faster if you place them on your central heating or dry them in the oven at a very low temperature. Then all you’ve got to do is pulverise the peel in a coffee grinder. (Or just use a teaspoon or two of freshly grated peel.)

clementines

 

Wow, I just realised that this post is all over the place! You probably wanna know how the rolls are, right? They are fabulous! Lots of juicy raisins, a couple of chopped almonds, and the clementine peel make them indeed taste like a very light stollen. Plus they have fig jam in the centre and lots of powdered sugar.

Reformationsbroetchen

Ingredients

500 g yellow wheat flour (or regular all-purpose), divided
20 g fresh yeast, divided
150 ml water
150 ml soy milk
100 g raisins
50 g sugar
50 g chopped blanched almonds
50 g margarine, softened
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dried clementine peel (or fresh, or lemon zest)
water for brushing
6 teaspoons red jam of choice
powdered sugar for dusting

Instructions

To make the dough, place half of the flour in a large bowl.

Crumble 5 grams of fresh yeast over the flour and add the water.

Let sit for 5 minutes.

Knead everything into a stiff dough and let rise at room temperature for 5 hours. (Or over night in the fridge. If you use the fridge, let the dough come back to room temp before proceeding.)

Once your dough is ready, combine soy milk and raisins in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and remove from heat immediately.

Let cool to room temperature, then stir in remaining yeast and sugar.

Stir until yeast is dissolved.

Add the soy milk mixture, the remaining flour, chopped almonds, margarine, salt, and dried clementine peel to the prepared dough and knead until all ingredients are incorporated and the dough is smooth.

Place in a bowl, cover, and let rest for 45 minutes.

On a floured surface, roll the dough into a rectangle, about 36 x 48 cm.

Cut the dough into 12 12x12 cm sized squares.

Brush the corners of each square with a bit of water, then fold each corner into the centre and press down gently. Transfer the squares to two baking sheets lined with parchment paper.

Cover with clean kitchen towels and let rest for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile preheat the oven to 200°C.

Place 1/2 teaspoon of jam in the centre of each roll.

Place 1 baking sheet in the hot oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown.

Repeat with the other sheet. Let the rolls cool completely before dusting with powdered sugar. Serve on the same day.

http://www.seitanismymotor.com/2016/10/reformationsbroetchen-reformation-rolls/

reformationsbroetchen

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Although we are still enjoying some unusually hot days, autumn produce has been entering the stores, especially pumpkins and squashes. (Which we also call pumpkins in German. I neer know what’s what in English.) Every year I discover a new variety. And even though there is no need for hot soup yet, I bought a pumpkin (or squash, or whatever…). The pattypan squash is called pâtisson or bischofsmütze (bishop’s head) over here and I think I have never seen a white one before. I kind of assumed that at least it’s flesh would be orange, but it wasn’t. Kind of disappointing because I wanted the colour to match some fresh chanterelles I had bought.

marinated pâtisson (patty pan squash)

chanterelles

I had imagined them both together on an autumnly flammkuchen or tarte flambée. (Read more on flammkuchen in the post I just linked.) The squash was easy to cut and tasted like a mix of cucumber and zucchini, which meant it tasted like nothing. But there was a solution to this problem. I recently had ordered a couple of new spices: chile powders, ras al-hanout, and Spanish Pimentón de la Vera (smoked paprika). All of those powders had bright red or dark brown colours, which I used to give the squash a makeover both in appearance and flavour.

spices

marinated-patisson

I marinated the squash for on hour. (But you could do it over night, too.) I didn’t think of putting the chanterelles in there as well, which might have been a good idea after all. Putting those mushrooms on my flammkuchen in the first place was an idea I got from Stephanie. On Instagram I had asked for tips on how to prepare chanterelles. I have never had much luck with preparing anything but button mushrooms. Stephanie’s idea to put them on a crust together with crème fraîche and a couple of other vegetables sounded perfect. For my crème fraîche I used two cubes of preserved or fermented bean curd. It looks like this and you can buy it in Asian grocery stores. If you cannot find it though, don’t worry. The recipe will work just fine without the fermented tofu.

I like that this recipe has a couple of uncommon ingredients. I really, really needed some new inspiration. But it seems that using unusual ingredients or time-consuming preparation methods seems to go against every food-blogging trend right now. And I guess that is exactly why I am doing it. It’s not that I have a boatload of free time on my hands, but once or twice I really want to cook in an elaborate way and wander off the popular paths. (By the way, if you want to learn a bit more about me and my view on cooking, hop over to Erin’s blog Olives For Dinner. She’s one of my favourite blogger and her cooking style is so unique and inspiring that I felt super honoured when she included me in her new interview column that is called Why I Cook. And there’s a billboard-sized picture of me, too. I am amazed the internet didn’t break.)

For the dough (which is made without any kind of leavener and has to be rolled out very thinly) I used a special kind of German flour. It is called type 1050 flour and can be described as a mix of regular flour and whole wheat flour. It is a bread flour that is milled in a way that not all bran and wheat germ is removed. It also has more gluten than regular German flour. I like to use this flour for pizzas and other things that need to be rolled out thinly ans the dough is very strong and flexible. Of course you probably won’t be able to find this flour outside of Germany and I assume you can use regular bread flour as a substitute.

tarte flambée with squash and chanterelles

Flammkuchen (Tarte Flambée) with Squash and Chanterelles

Ingredients

For the marinated pâtisson squash
1 teaspoon ras al-hanout
1 teaspoon pimentón de la vera dulce (sweet smoked paprika)
1 teaspoon ancho chile powder
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon cold pressed rapeseed oil (or other)
2 tablespoons water
salt to taste
For the crust
250 g (2 cups) type 1050 wheat flour (substitute bread- or all-purpose flour)
4 g (1 leveled teaspoon) salt
1 tablespoon unsweetened soy yoghurt
1 tablespoon oil
120 ml (1/2 cup) water
For the crème fraîche
250 g (1 cup) unsweetened soy yoghurt
2 cubes fermented bean curd (optional)
1 tablespoon oil
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt or more, to taste
pepper to taste
Toppings
chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and halved
small cherry tomatoes, whole or halved
salt and pepper

Instructions

To marinate the squash, cut the pâtisson in quarters and slice one quarter very thinly. (Use the remaining squash for other purposes.)

Combine all ingredients for the marinade in a bowl and add the squash.

Stir to combine and let rest for an hour.

Meanwhile prepare the dough.

Combine flour and salt.

Add remaining ingredients and knead until the dough is firm and elastic, about 10 minutes.

Cover and let the dough rest for 30 minutes, or refrigerate until ready to use.

To make the crème fraîche, blend all ingredients in a blender.

To make the flammkuchen, place a baking sheet in the oven and preheat the oven to 250°C (480°F).

Divide the dough into four equally sized pieces and place each piece on a sheet of parchment paper.

Roll out as thin as possible. Let the dough rest and relax for a minute or two from time to time, so that rolling is easier.

Thinly spread with crème fraîche and top with vegetables and marinated squash.

Season with salt and pepper.

Carefully remove the hot baking sheet from the oven and slide the sheet of parchment paper with the flammkuchen on the baking sheet.

Bake for about 8-10 minutes or until the edges are crispy.

Repeat with the other three pieces of dough and serve immediately.

http://www.seitanismymotor.com/2016/09/flammkuchen-squash-chanterelles/

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