Category

German food

Although we are still enjoying some unusually hot days, autumn produce has been entering the stores, especially pumpkins and squashes. (Which we also call pumpkins in German. I neer know what’s what in English.) Every year I discover a new variety. And even though there is no need for hot soup yet, I bought a pumpkin (or squash, or whatever…). The pattypan squash is called pâtisson or bischofsmütze (bishop’s head) over here and I think I have never seen a white one before. I kind of assumed that at least it’s flesh would be orange, but it wasn’t. Kind of disappointing because I wanted the colour to match some fresh chanterelles I had bought.

marinated pâtisson (patty pan squash)

chanterelles

I had imagined them both together on an autumnly flammkuchen or tarte flambée. (Read more on flammkuchen in the post I just linked.) The squash was easy to cut and tasted like a mix of cucumber and zucchini, which meant it tasted like nothing. But there was a solution to this problem. I recently had ordered a couple of new spices: chile powders, ras al-hanout, and Spanish Pimentón de la Vera (smoked paprika). All of those powders had bright red or dark brown colours, which I used to give the squash a makeover both in appearance and flavour.

spices

marinated-patisson

I marinated the squash for on hour. (But you could do it over night, too.) I didn’t think of putting the chanterelles in there as well, which might have been a good idea after all. Putting those mushrooms on my flammkuchen in the first place was an idea I got from Stephanie. On Instagram I had asked for tips on how to prepare chanterelles. I have never had much luck with preparing anything but button mushrooms. Stephanie’s idea to put them on a crust together with crème fraîche and a couple of other vegetables sounded perfect. For my crème fraîche I used two cubes of preserved or fermented bean curd. It looks like this and you can buy it in Asian grocery stores. If you cannot find it though, don’t worry. The recipe will work just fine without the fermented tofu.

I like that this recipe has a couple of uncommon ingredients. I really, really needed some new inspiration. But it seems that using unusual ingredients or time-consuming preparation methods seems to go against every food-blogging trend right now. And I guess that is exactly why I am doing it. It’s not that I have a boatload of free time on my hands, but once or twice I really want to cook in an elaborate way and wander off the popular paths. (By the way, if you want to learn a bit more about me and my view on cooking, hop over to Erin’s blog Olives For Dinner. She’s one of my favourite blogger and her cooking style is so unique and inspiring that I felt super honoured when she included me in her new interview column that is called Why I Cook. And there’s a billboard-sized picture of me, too. I am amazed the internet didn’t break.)

For the dough (which is made without any kind of leavener and has to be rolled out very thinly) I used a special kind of German flour. It is called type 1050 flour and can be described as a mix of regular flour and whole wheat flour. It is a bread flour that is milled in a way that not all bran and wheat germ is removed. It also has more gluten than regular German flour. I like to use this flour for pizzas and other things that need to be rolled out thinly ans the dough is very strong and flexible. Of course you probably won’t be able to find this flour outside of Germany and I assume you can use regular bread flour as a substitute.

tarte flambée with squash and chanterelles

Flammkuchen (Tarte Flambée) with Squash and Chanterelles

Ingredients

For the marinated pâtisson squash
1 teaspoon ras al-hanout
1 teaspoon pimentón de la vera dulce (sweet smoked paprika)
1 teaspoon ancho chile powder
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon cold pressed rapeseed oil (or other)
2 tablespoons water
salt to taste
For the crust
250 g (2 cups) type 1050 wheat flour (substitute bread- or all-purpose flour)
4 g (1 leveled teaspoon) salt
1 tablespoon unsweetened soy yoghurt
1 tablespoon oil
120 ml (1/2 cup) water
For the crème fraîche
250 g (1 cup) unsweetened soy yoghurt
2 cubes fermented bean curd (optional)
1 tablespoon oil
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt or more, to taste
pepper to taste
Toppings
chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and halved
small cherry tomatoes, whole or halved
salt and pepper

Instructions

To marinate the squash, cut the pâtisson in quarters and slice one quarter very thinly. (Use the remaining squash for other purposes.)

Combine all ingredients for the marinade in a bowl and add the squash.

Stir to combine and let rest for an hour.

Meanwhile prepare the dough.

Combine flour and salt.

Add remaining ingredients and knead until the dough is firm and elastic, about 10 minutes.

Cover and let the dough rest for 30 minutes, or refrigerate until ready to use.

To make the crème fraîche, blend all ingredients in a blender.

To make the flammkuchen, place a baking sheet in the oven and preheat the oven to 250°C (480°F).

Divide the dough into four equally sized pieces and place each piece on a sheet of parchment paper.

Roll out as thin as possible. Let the dough rest and relax for a minute or two from time to time, so that rolling is easier.

Thinly spread with crème fraîche and top with vegetables and marinated squash.

Season with salt and pepper.

Carefully remove the hot baking sheet from the oven and slide the sheet of parchment paper with the flammkuchen on the baking sheet.

Bake for about 8-10 minutes or until the edges are crispy.

Repeat with the other three pieces of dough and serve immediately.

http://www.seitanismymotor.com/2016/09/flammkuchen-squash-chanterelles/

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I am pretty sure you are going to kill me. Because my blog is silent for almost two weeks and then another poppy seed cake recipe? Well, yes. Because poppy seed cakes are the best thing ever and there can never be too many. Never. (Did you know that 100 g of poppy seeds contain 1500 mg of calcium? Move over, superfoods!) Also this is a recipe I saw ages back on Instagram and wanted to make it since spring.Originally this was made with bright pink rhubarb. The colour contrast between that and the blue cake is just so lovely.

Unfortunately I missed the window to make this, rhubarb season ended months ago. But it’s summer and there are so many wonderful fruits available right now. I definitely won’t cry over unavailable rhubarb right now. Instead I feel very grateful that I can get black- and blueberries at almost every corner. Since they have almost the same colour as the poppy seeds they don’t stick out as much as the rhubarb. So my cake may not be super pretty, but it definitely is delicious! It has a very moist crumb, a hint of tartness from the blackberries (mat least mine were tart) and very crunchy and cookie-like crumbs. I made the cake and let it sit on the counter for about a day before it was demolished by my co-workers. I could save a couple of slices and am amazed by the fact that they still had a perfectly moist texture even after hanging out in the fridge for three or four days.

You should definitely try to grind the poppy seeds for this recipe! The ground seeds release some of their oil, which helps to keep the moisture. Another thing that helps is enough fat and sugar! I tweaked the recipe a bit for that. As for the berry filling, you can use both black-and blueberries or a mixture of both. If you don’t have a 20 cm springform pan, you can use a larger one. But please watch the cake and make sure to bake it for a shorter period of time.

On another note I recently found out that this year’s Vegan MoFo will be in November. There’s a new team of organisers and the rules this year are just as flexible as they used to be. I was pretty sure I wouldn’t take part in another round because last year I took it a bit too far and was exhausted pretty soon. I want my pictures to look a certain way and I have to write up every entry in two languages. That, a job, and a family doesn’t always go together pretty well. I also felt that people quickly lost their interest in the whole MoFo thing and I didn’t want to litter everyone’s feed and email folder. I was determined to ignore this year’s round but now I am not so sure anymore. I have a couple of ideas and a very loose theme that might save me some energy. After all this whole event is supposed to be fun.The only thing I am really concerned about is the fact that November is a really, really bad month for food photography in Germany. I use natural light and in November there is no such thing. It is the darkest and most depressing time of the year! And no warming soup will change that. But what can I say? It’s Vegan MoFo! What do you think? Are you going to participate? Do you have a theme?

Mohnkuchen | German Poppy Seed Crumb Cake with Blackberries

Poppy Seed Crumb Cake with Blackberries

Ingredients

For the cake:
240 ml (1 cup) soy milk
80 g (1/4 cup) soy yoghurt
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
100 ml vegetable oil
2 tablespoons ground flax seeds
150 g (3/4 cup) sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground vanilla
200 g (1 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons) poppy seeds, ground (Grind them in a small coffee mill. Make sure the mill is suitable for grinding oily seeds.)
200 g (1 1/2 cups plus 3 tablespoons) flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
1/4 teaspoon salt
200 g black- and blueberries
For the crumbs:
100 g (3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon) flour
50 g (1/4 cup) sugar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 200°C and line a round pan (20 cm diameter) with parchment paper or grease the pan.

In a bowl combine milk, yoghurt, and vinegar and let sit to curdle for 2 minutes.

Stir in remaining liquid ingredients plus flax seeds.

Stir in sugar, vanilla, and poppy seeds.

Mix with remaining ingredients.

Stir in 3-4 tablespoons of the berries and pour the batter into the prepared pan.

Place the remaining berries on top and prepare the streusel topping by combining all ingredients in a bowl.

Form large crumbs with your hands and place on top of the cake.

Bake for 45 - 50 minutes or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean.

Let the cake cool for 15 minutes. Remove pan and let cool completely before serving.

http://www.seitanismymotor.com/2016/09/poppy-seed-crumb-cake-with-blackberries/

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Before I can introduce today’s apricot cheesecake recipe I have to start with a couple of technical things. Because for this recipe, you are going to make your own quark. (No worries, it’s very easy!)

I’ve mentioned a couple of times that German cheesecakes are different from Northern American cheesecakes. Traditionally we use quark instead of cream cheese. Quark (or topfen in Austria) is a kind of soft cheese that is made from sour milk. It’s an early stage of regular cheese. Quark is similar to cream cheese somehow, but its texture is a bit more grainy. It also tastes differently. It is a bit blander and more sour than cream cheese. It comes in different varieties with different fat levels.

Vegan versions of quark do exist, although they do not really taste like the original version. Most also have a different texture. A popular yoghurt and soy milk brand seems to make their quark by reducing the amount of liquid in their yoghurt, to obtain a firmer texture. That is something what German vegans have been doing for years and this method is also the one I am showing you today.

There are several methods to strain your yoghurt and over time I have tried a few. At first I used a coffee dripper and a  filter. I placed the dripper over a bowl and poured the yoghurt inside. Then I let it drain in the fridge over night. I never really liked that method because I didn’t have much influence on the straining and the yogurt was difficult to scrape out.

Then I used a cheesecloth but whenever I tried to squeeze that, huge blobs of yoghurt would squirt out. Then I read about nut bags. Umfortunately they are so insanely expensive that I never bothered buying them. (12 € for a scrap of polyester? Come on!) And I am glad about that now. I found a super cheap alternative and maybe you have access to that, too. (Or a nut bag.) At German drugstores you can buy laundry bags made from polyester. (I bought mine at a chain called dm.) They are very similar to a nut bag but cost only a fraction. And these are the bags I use for making quark.

Apricot Cheesecake: vegan no-bake recipe. No creamcheese, no nuts.

I usually pour the yoghurt into the bag and hook it up. (The laundry bag has a long, adjustable string.) It let it hang like that for three to four hours and drain the liquid that has collected at the bottom of the mixing bowl.

After that I place a kitchen towel at the bottom of the bowl and place the yoghurt filled laundry bag on top of the towel. Then I let the yoghurt rest in the fridge for a night. The next morning the yoghurt has usually lost half its weight and is thick and creamy.

Apricot Cheesecake: vegan no-bake recipe. No cream cheese, no nuts.

If you don’t have access to nut or laundry bags, you can still make quark. Pour your yoghurt into a double layered cheesecloth or a regular kitchen towel. Tie it up with a small piece of thread and hook it up. If you haven’t got any hooks, you can try to tie it around the tap on your kitchen sink. Sometimes that works. Or you leave out that step and start by placing the filled kitchen towel in your bowl. Over night it should be able to soak up a lot of liquid even if you didn’t drain the yoghurt before.

Now that you’ve done all that, you have your cheesecake base! And believe me, it’s worth all the work. The cake you are going to make with this quark is very creamy and light. It also doesn’t require baking, there are no expensive cashew or other nuts in it and it reqires only a few more ingredients. Of course I couldn’t do without the coconut oil. If you are sensitive to that, you can replace it with margarine. That will definitely work for the crust. The filling might need a tiny bit more agar though. (Start with 1/4 teaspoon.)

Apricot Cheesecake: vegan no-bake recipe. No cream cheese, no nuts.

Oh, one last thing: This time I didn’t use regular agar agar. We have a product called Agartine, that is meant to replace gelatine in baking. The difference to regular agar is that Agartine is thinned with maltodextrin. One package measures 10 grams, of which 20 % are agar. So if you want to replace the Agartine with regular powdered agar agar, use 1 teaspoon (2 g).

As I already said, this cheesecake has a very light and creamy texture.It tastes mild and fresh and is only lightly sweetened. That makes a great base for the caramelised apricots which go on top. The crust couldn’t be easier: A simple two incredient cookie crust that is stored in the fridge so it will hold together well. I think this recipe is a great alternative both for those who don’t have access to cream cheese (or don’t like it’s taste) and for those who have to avoid nuts (or cannot afford them in the quantitiy that is usually necessary for no-bake vegan cheesecakes). So this apricot cheesecake is easy to make, and except for the agar agar, it doesn’t require any fancy or expensive ingredients.

Apricot Cheesecake: vegan no-bake recipe. No cream cheese, no nuts.

Apricot Cheesecake (No Baking, No Nuts)

8 servings

Ingredients

1000 g plain soy yoghurt
200 g cookies (oatmeal or shortbread)
10 tablespoons melted, refined coconut oil, divided
200 ml quince juice plus 2-3 tablespoons, divided (substitute apple juice)
10 g (1 pkg) agartine or 2 g (1 tsp) regular powdered agar agar
50 g (1/4 cup) sugar
400 g apricots, sliced
50 g (1/4 cup) brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

Instructions

A day before you plan to make your cheesecake, drain the yoghurt as explained above. Yield: 500 g of quark.

The next day, line a 21 cm springform pan with parchment paper (bottom and sides).

Place the cookies in a food processor and process into fine crumbs. Alternatively place the cookies in a freezer bag and use a rolling pin to crush the cookies.

Mix with 4 tablespoons melted coconut oil.

Press into the prepared pan and place in the fridge.

Pour the quark into a large bowl and mix with remaining coconut oil and sugar.

Place 200 ml quince juice and agartine (or apple juice and agar agar) in a small saucepan and bring to a boil.

Boil for two minutes and let cool for five minutes.

Mix with the quark mixture until everything is smooth.

Remove the pan from the fridge and pour the quark mixture over the cookie crust.

Refridgerate for 2 hours, then place the cake in the freezer for 30 minutes.

While it's in the fridge, prepare the caramelised apricots.

Place apricots and brown sugar in a small saucepan. (Can be the one you used before.)

Bring to a boil and cook until the sugar has melted, stirring constantly.

Mix remaining juice with cornstarch and stir well until there are no lumps left.

Pour over the apricots and cook for another two minutes, stirring.

Let cool.

Carefully remove the cake from its pan.

Place the apricots on top of the cake. Reserve some of the apricot caramel for serving.

Store in the fridge until you are ready to serve it.

This cake's leftovers are best stored in the fridge, too.

http://www.seitanismymotor.com/2016/07/apricot-cheesecake-no-baking-no-nuts/

Apricot Cheesecake: vegan no-bake recipe. No cream cheese, no nuts.

 

 

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Hollerwaffeln {Waffles with Elderberry Flowers}

These tiny elderberry flowers are the most flavourful thing you can imagine. During the year there is only a short window where you can pick them. Here in Dresden, this window is almost over. And still F and I went out on a rainy Sunday to pick the last umbels in a park nearby. Those we could reach at least. Because most of the flowers which were growing at eye level had already been picked. And around us the people have probably stocked up on elderberry syrup that they made to preserve the exceptional taste these fragrant blossoms produce.

Hollerwaffeln {Waffles with Elderberry Flowers}

Since we didn’t find many flowes left, syrup was out of the question. When I told F that we had wandered through the rain and still there would be no syrup, she was furious. It had taken me over 30 minutes to convince her to go out. I had promised her sweet syrup. And now I couldn’t deliver. To console her I told her about Hollerkuechle. These are battered deep fried elderberry flower umbels that can be eaten with sugar.

F didn’t think that was a good idea. She was still mad. She wanted syrup. She sat down on the sofa and didn’t move for five minutes. Then suddenly she jumped up. “Okay, mum. Let’s make a compromise.” This child is very, very good with language already and a compromise usually means that she’ll turn into the most convincing four year old lawyer you can imagine. And that she’ll get her way. But this time she really meant compromise. And she had a very good idea.  Since it was Sunday she suddenly wanted waffles. With elderberries. Sounded exactly like hollerkuechle to her. And I didn’t mind. In fact I thought that was a really wonderful idea. So off into the kitchen we went.

Hollerwaffeln {Waffles with Elderberry Flowers}

In Germany we never eat waffles for breakfast. Because here they are a treat for Sunday afternoons where they sometimes replace the traditional cake. Baking waffles is a Sunday ritual in many families and it has to be celebrated properly. Someone makes the batter, someone else heats the cherries or the raspberries, and another person has to whip the cream. To be a proper cake substitute waffles need two things: fat and sugar. Both ingredients help them stay moist and crispy at the same time. Which comes in handy if you want to recreate something like the crunchy fried texture of traditional Hollerkuechle.

Our waffles come without cream and fruits. We didn’t have the patience. They have fat and sugar though. And we ate these crispy treats right up.

Hollerwaffeln

6 regular (heart shaped) waffles

Ingredients

90 g melted refined coconut oil (or rapeseed oil)
200 g plain soy yoghurt
240 ml soy milk
100 g brown sugar
240 g white spelt flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 generous pinch salt
12 elderflower umbels

Instructions

Preheat your waffle iron and grease if necessary.

In a bowl whisk oil, yoghurt, milk, and sugar.

Add remaining ingredients and mix until a thick batter forms.

Fill your waffle iron with the batter (about 3-4 tablespoons per waffle).

Place two elderflower umbels on top and bake until the waffles are crispy.

Serve immediately.

http://www.seitanismymotor.com/2016/06/hollerwaffeln-elderflower-waffles/

 Hollerwaffeln {Waffles with Elderberry Flowers}

 

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